A Dane’s Masonic trip to Scotland

  by

John Blem 3rd. degree  

  www.blem.info/jbm

click onto this site to see the report in Danish with pictures

Three Danish masons decided to take an educational Masonic trip to Scotland. The first mason, Br. Jan Reimer, studied Freemasons on a very high, international level. The second mason, Br. Erik Dam, was the daily leader of the Danish freemason museum. The first 2 masons have both been freemasons for more than 20 years. It was decided that Br. Jan Reimer would be responsible for the travel speeches and Br. Erik Dam would hand over the gifts, whilst the 3rd. degree mason John Blem would simply relax and enjoy the trip. As the date of departure came closer, the 2 very experienced masons had to cancel their trip!

Now the travel speech and gifts had to be done by the 3rd mason, who, in deep respect of the Order, was now, to put it mildly, in “total panic”. In accordance with my deepest wish, Br. Jan Reimer now sent the involved lodges an E-mail saying that Br. Blem would now be coming alone, that he had never been abroad before and would prefer just want to be a” fly on the wall “ during and after the ceremonies.

 

I was anyway equipped with:

 

1.       3 Master aprons as gift

2.       Travel speech written by Br. Jan Reimer

3.       Greetings from my lodge Z.&F. written by Br. Erik Dam  

The destinations for the Masonic trip were:

 

Oct 11 St. Mary’s Chapel Visit the lodge Masjid -1-Suleman.

Oct 12 Visit Rosslyn Chapel and Bannockburn

Oct 13   Visit the Lodge Stirling Royal Arch nr.76

Oct   14 Visit to the Mother lodge Kilwinning no. Nothing

 

My Travel of Education

 As I now was going to travel all alone to Edinburgh, my wife and daughter decided to join me. 

We checked the different hotel accommodations, and the first lodge we were going to visit, advised us to stay at the Royal Overseas Hotel, as the celebration dinner was taking place there.

Through the Internet, we contacted “Thistle limousine”.  The owner, John Turner, picked us up at the airport dressed in an elegant dark blue uniform and peaked cap, and he drove us to the hotel in fine style.  We decided to use John’s service during the rest of our trip but without the cap.

Arriving at the hotel, we were installed in a 5-room penthouse flat with a narrow staircase, but with a marvellous view of Edinburgh Castle.  We had 5 beds, kitchen and living room with fireplace at a price of Ł115 per night. After unpacking and dinner at the hotel, we soon fell asleep.

 

Sightseeing

Friday, 10th October 2003, we started with a solid Scottish breakfast and then I went out exploring the sights of Edinburgh in the surroundings of The Royal Mile, while my wife and daughter went shopping.   I also went to the lodge St. Mary Chapel in St. John Street 23 which is the oldest ongoing and tailor-made lodge building in the world.

From the outside, the building looks modest and somewhat squeezed into a corner.  On my way, I also visited St. Giles Cathedral.  The 4 large, central supporting columns are with certainty dated back to1120.  A female attendant enthusiastically showed me the different mason’s signatures on the bricks.  The custom at that time was that a mason was paid according to the number of bricks showing his signature.  Another fascinating thing at St. Giles was a small separate chapel, built in 1911 for the Scottish Order of Chivalry: The Most Ancient and the Most Noble Order of the Thistle.  It was a very small room adorned with fine wooden carvings.

I hurried on to The Grand Lodge Museum, 96 George Street, introduced myself and asked if it was possible to have a look at the museum.  “Ay - ay – sir, anytime” was the answer.  I was allowed to look around undisturbed on condition that I would latch the door when I left.  It was surprising to see how funny they presented their old collection of fine leather aprons.  There was also a beautiful bronze statue granted by D.D.F.O. on the occasion of the 250th anniversary of the Scottish Grand Lodge.

 

Saturday, 11th. Meeting in the Lodge of St. Mary’s Chapel

 The Loge Masjid – I – Suleman was originally founded in Persia in 1924 by brothers in the oil industries and functioned until 1951 when all the original regalia was sent out of the country and given to the Grand Lodge of Scotland.  The Lodge reopened in 1974 with the same Master who served as Master in Persia in 1943.

At 11.30 am. I met the secretary of the lodge, Mr. Murray MacGregor, who kindly showed me The Chapel of St. Mary’s, which was consecrated on 18th December 1936 by Scotland’s Grand Master, William St. Clair of Rosslyn.  As the lodge activities were going to start at 13.30, the secretary took his time to tell me about all the directly visible things: paintings, the ancient organ, the organization and so on.

Watching and feeling the power from this old building, my legs started to tremble and I asked the lodge secretary whether he had definitely received the E-mail stating that I just wanted to be a fly on the wall during the meeting.  It is quite okay, he said smilingly, and I hastened to give him the written speech from Br. Jan Reimer and the leather apron from Br. Erik Dam, together with the beautifully expressed greeting from Z&F. 

He found the speech so touching that he would write it in the Minutes and he would have the leather apron framed.  Many of the brethren came and greeted me heartily.

Deeply relieved that all formalities were over with, I found a seat in the hall and enjoyed the ceremony with the instalment of one new Master and the reinstatement of approximately 16 other officials.

It is incomprehensible so many and long strings of words they have to say by heart to install a new Master.  This was definitely a unique experience, which had to be seen.  It is inexpressible in its performance.  At 18.30 the lodge celebrated ladies night with a banquet and, after that, Scottish folk dances with ”local Scottish wine“ to match.  My wife and I attended the first part.  It was easy for us to get home as the celebration took place at our hotel.  Some of our other dear brothers had some difficulties in that respect.

 

Sunday, 12th.  Sightseeing at Roslyn Chapel, Bannockburn and Stirling.

 Our chauffeur, John, picked us up at 11.30 and after a little chat we started with Rosslyn Chapel, which he, as a matter of fact, never had seen himself.  The drive from Edinburgh took about 20 minutes and all of a sudden I was standing in front of this famous chapel.  We bought tickets - 4 Pounds each.  It was also possible to buy “interesting Masonic books”.  I rented a “walk around audio phone”, from which you could be informed about the many various stone carvings.

Roslyn Chapel itself looked smaller than I had imagined.  However, it gives a good, close experience.  All the refinements in the buildings and carvings made me think of “showcases” from former times. When a carpenter or a cabinet-maker wanted to show their skills and knowledge, they often made a model in miniature in order to convince the buyer that he was the right man for the task.

Finally I saw “The Apprentice Pillar” live.

 I will not go into the details in Rosslyn Chapel. They can be found much better described on a website. I just want to mention that it is possible to get a special Masonic conducted tour.  You just have to announce your arrival a few days in advance.

Now it was lunchtime and we went on directly north to the Bannockburn Centre, which we had a look at.  After that, we had a really good meal at hotel Robert the Bruce

The memorial centre of the battlefield of Bannockburn is situated 3 km south of Stirling, where Robert the Bruce beat the English in1314, a tragic year for the Order of the Templars.  A fine bronze statue has been set up in memory of the king, who became the symbol of the independence of Scotland.  Also in Sterling, there is a commemorative tower (with 242 steps) to William Wallace, who is regarded as one of the greatest patriots.  In the movie “Braveheart”, his work is very finely described, although maybe slightly exaggerated.

Now the time had come for a change of scenery, and we moved to the hotel “The Golden Lion” in Stirling, where the next lodge meeting was planned.

  

Monday, 13th – Visit to the Lodge Stirling Royal Arch no. 76.

John Turner took us to the above-mentioned hotel and we checked into a very nice room with 2 big twin beds.

That day – the 13th of October – is memorable, as it was exactly this day in the year of 1314 that Jacob B. Molay was burned at the stake together with 54 of his brothers because they declined to refute their faith.

To me, however, the day was wonderful.  This special day, I met Brother Jim Hall.  He became the cornerstone in my trip, exploring the freemasonic places of Scotland .He proved to me, in his behaviour, that real fraternity has no borders.

 In order to get a historical view of the lodge, I had printed out a few pages from their web “Loge 76. co.uk”.  The lodge, which has existed since 1759, has been resting and reopening 3 times until the last time in 1890, where 240 brothers were gathered exactly here at our hotel, where they promised one another, that this was the last time this lodge would rise.

I arrived at the lodge and met the secretary, Brother Paul Miller, whose son in law was the object of this evening’s work in the 3rd degree.

I handed over a copy of my speech and the leather apron to the lodge secretary.  I wanted to recite he greetings to the lodge myself this time.  Brother Paul Miller then showed me the comfortable lodge hall, full of photos and memories from earlier times.  Soon after, he introduced me to a very varied crowd of brothers with many different kinds of leather aprons and dresses.  They were slowly gathering in the hall, finding seats.  I was placed alongside the recipient, who trembling with nervousness, had been seated in the hall from the very beginning.

Things then happened in rapid succession.  I can tell you, feelings run pretty high, when you are going through a 3rd degree in the Scottish system.

During the following dinner, I was seated in the place of honour together with the recipient, who was still trembling like an aspen leaf, but now bubbling over with joy, that he had survived.

Together we enjoyed a pie and baked beans and discussed his experience.  He was a qualified archaeologist and found great inspiration in his freemasonry to continue his work.

Now the lodge secretary presented my leather apron to the lodge, and I found the courage to stand up and deliver the greetings from our oldest lodge Z. &. F. that goes as follows:

The way Brother Paul Miller and his staff took care of me was very touching.  I mentioned: “I am going to the Mother Lodge Kilwinning to-morrow. It is 100 km. away.  Do you think there would be another brother here who is going as well?  Brother Wilson looked reflective, and after 15 min. Brother Jim Hall turned up and told me, that he with pleasure would pick me up the following day at 16 hours as neither had he ever visited this, the oldest Grand lodge of Scotland.

He drove me home while we discussed the next day’s visit.  Deeply relieved that the transport problems had been solved, I soon went to sleep.

 

Tuesday,14th.  Visit to Mother Loge Kilwinning No. 0.

My newfound friend, Brother Hall, picked me up at 16 hours sharp.  Travelling south we talked heart to heart about our different experiences in life.  We were the same age and for that reason we communicated very well.  Seeing that he had never visited Kilwinning, and as it was in the middle of the rush hour, we decided to start 3 hours before the meeting at the lodge, which was going to start a 19 hours.

We made our way slowly and arrived safe and sound after 2˝ hours, parked the car and all of a sudden we found ourselves just in front of the building with the inscription “Mother Lodge Kilwinning”.

The seniority number of this loge is 0, but they prefer to call it “Nothing”.

With awe, I went through the door of this 400 year-old lodge, which started in 1598.

As Brother Hall knew a former P.M., we were let in without giving the watchword, handshake and signs, which are usually demanded when unknown persons are visiting this lodge.  The secretary, Brother David Wilson, greeted us kindly and showed us their very beautiful exhibition cabinets, loaded with all kinds of Masonic memorabilia.  As I handed him the speech and the leather apron, he was very happy and declared that he would find room for this in the cabinet as well. We agreed that when their Master at the end of the lodge work introduced all the guests and presented the apron, I would deliver the greetings from Z & F.  It was a 1st degree we were going to follow this evening, and about 100 people slowly sat down in the fine old oak benches.  Brother Jim Hall seated himself next to me, though he, as a former Master, should have been seated in the east.  In the Scottish lodges there is normally no instruction, on the other hand there are many, long and substantial monologues.  It is incomprehensible to me that they are able to remember the long passages by heart.  However, they always had a stand-by ready to help if they forgot, which of course happened now and then.

After having finished the lodge rituals, the Master did a thing, which I find is worth giving a thought.  He read aloud the list of visitors, and one by one he thanked them for having chosen to visit The Mother Loge Kilwinning “No. Nothing”.  All the guests then stood up, and one by one they delivered their lodge greetings.  Even if my legs trembled, I managed to stammer out my greetings, and I think they applauded nicely – thank you Brother Dam!

Their Master came after the meeting and gave me a signed guest-certificate, showing which grade I had observed.  At the same time, he also gave me a Kilwinning badge. Furthermore he kindly took the time to exchange a few, friendly remarks.

Thereafter, Brother Jim Hall and I enjoyed hot pie and baked beans with mineral water.  It was 10 o’clock and the end of this fantastic and educational journey was near.  We drove home in 1˝ hours and Brother Jim Hall recapitulated the different things we had seen and dealt with.  A close friendship had developed in a few hours.

I must mention that even if Scotland is a part of The United Kingdom, the language is almost unintelligible when they are speaking fast in connection with lodge work.  I needed many translations. Thank you, Brother Jim Hall for your unforgettable assistance.  I also want to thank Jan Reimer cordially, as a member of “The Royal Order of Scotland” he has good connections there, and without his great, purposeful and stubborn efforts, this journey never would have been possible.

The Scottish people are very hospitable and frank, and these people and their country are definitely worth visiting.  So, dear brothers, if you want to undertake a journey to the homeland for genuine freemasonry, go to Scotland and don’t forget your Freemason passports.

Yours

John Blem

jb@jblem.dk